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Block wall materials for 12 ft at 3 courses, rebar every 24″

Blocks needed
298×8×16 blocks
12 ft long × 3 courses (2 ft) — 24 ft² of wall, 5% breakage included
Elevation12 ft3 courses · 2.00 ft29 blocks · 1 bags mortar · 7 vertical bars
Blocks (with 5% breakage)29blocks
Blocks (exact)1.125 per ft² including joints27blocks
Wall area12 ft × 2 ft24ft²
Wall height3 courses at 8″2ft
Mortar (Type S, 70 lb)3 bags per 100 blocks at ⅜″ joints1bags
Masonry sandif mixing from bagged cement and lime instead0.13yd³
Vertical rebar (#4 @ 24″)25 linear ft including 18″ into the footing7bars
Grout for filled cells10 × 80 lb bags — only the cells with steel in them5.5ft³
Footing16″ × 8″ × 12 ft — twice the wall thickness0.4yd³
Engineeringunder 4 ft in most jurisdictionsUsually not

Notes

  • 1.125 blocks per square foot is the number, and it already includes the ⅜″ mortar joints. A "8×8×16" block is 7⅝ × 7⅝ × 15⅝ actual — the missing ⅜″ is the joint, which is why nominal dimensions divide so cleanly into wall areas.
  • Grout goes only in the cells that have steel in them — 7 cells here, 5.5 ft³. Solid-grouting the whole wall is a different job with several times the material and a footing sized for several times the load.
  • Under 4 ft, a straightforward garden or stem wall is normally within what a homeowner can build to prescriptive rules. Check locally, and check specifically whether it retains soil — that changes the answer everywhere.
  • The footing decides whether the wall lasts. 16″ × 8″ is the usual rule of twice the wall thickness, below the frost line, on undisturbed soil. Block laid on a footing that heaves cracks along the mortar joints, and there is no repair short of rebuilding.
  • Drainage behind any wall holding back soil is not optional: gravel backfill, a perforated pipe at the base and weep holes. Water pressure behind a wall is a larger force than the soil itself, and it is what actually pushes walls over.

Blocks

12 ft × 3 courses is 2 ft high and 24 ft² of wall — 29 blocks with 5% for breakage and cuts.

The number to remember is 1.125 blocks per square foot, and it already includes the ⅜″ mortar joints. A block sold as 8×8×16 actually measures 7⅝ × 7⅝ × 15⅝; the missing ⅜″ is the joint, which is why nominal sizes divide so neatly into wall areas.

Mortar

1 bags of Type S at ⅜″ joints, or 0.13 yd³ of masonry sand if you are mixing from cement and lime instead.

Steel and grout

7 vertical bars, 25 linear ft including 18″ of anchorage into the footing, and 5.5 ft³ of grout — 10 bags.

Grout goes only in the cells that have steel in them. Solid-grouting the whole wall is a different job with several times the material and a footing sized for several times the load.

The footing decides whether it lasts

0.4 yd³ at 16″ × 8″, below the frost line, on undisturbed soil. Block laid on a footing that heaves cracks along the mortar joints, and there is no repair short of taking it down.

Before you start

Anything over 4 ft, and anything at all that retains soil, needs an engineered design and a permit almost everywhere. Soil pushes sideways with a force that grows with the square of the height, and walls sized by rule of thumb fail by tipping over rather than by crushing.

Drainage behind a retaining wall is not optional either: gravel backfill, perforated pipe at the base, weep holes. Water pressure behind a wall is a bigger force than the soil, and it is what actually pushes walls over.

Nearby sizes

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